One Hundred Years of Menswear

I took a couple of fashion history classes while I was at North Texas but never anything with an emphasis on menswear. This book satisfied my hunger and filled some holes in my knowledge in men's clothing from the early 20th century. The author, Cally Blackman, divides the book chronologically between the 1900's to 1930's and 1940's onwards and further into sub-categories.

One Hundred Years of Menswear is roughly 20% text and 80% classic fashion print ads and Sartorialist style photography. I did not feel like it was worth the cover price when it first came out, but after devouring this book, I now disagree with my initial judgment. I would recommend this book to any fashion enthusiast as well as any guy out there with a remote interest in why we dress the way we do today.

S/S 2011 Menswear Favorites

Just a quick rundown of In Vestments' top 5 menswear collections for Spring 2011. I've been wanting to do this since NYFW ended but recent employment opportunities have kept me busy.

5. Paul Smith - Paris 6/27/10
This could have been higher on the list without the Led Zeppelin soundtrack.

 

4. Rick Owens - Paris 6/24/10
Does not translate well to street but here purely for creative reasons.

3. Robert Geller - New York 9/11/10
Been a fan since his days with Alexander Plokhov and their defunct label, "Cloak". Excellent as always.

2. Burberry Prorsum - Milan 6/19/10
Burberry doing what they do best. I wish I could have every outerwear piece in this collection.

1. Jean Paul Gaultier - Paris 6/24/10

You have to applaud a designer who could make you want to wear overalls. Marc Jacobs tried five years ago but did not do it for me.

Gareth Pugh S/S 2011 Video

Here is a visually stunning eleven-minute short film recently screened in Paris for Gareth Pugh's spring 2011 collection. Music by Matthew Stone.

South Korea's Virgin Blak

Here is an excellent menswear label coming from South Korea. You can't expect a company from the United States to produce avant-garde pieces and retail at mass market prices so you have to look elsewhere for things like this.

Most of us realistically can not afford to have a closet full of Rick Owens or Dior Homme. Virgin Blak is a great alternative with most pieces in the $40 to $120 price range.  I am kind of obsessed about these guys at the moment.

Pictures shown here are items currently available on their website. A new fall/winter collection is due out in October. 

Dollar bin finds: The Anvil LP (1982) by Visage

I found this record at a local Oklahoma shop a few months back and is still my favorite dollar bin find to date. If you are not familiar, Visage is a London-based new wave band that gained popularity in Europe with some mild success in the United States during the early 80's. They are known for their connection to the decade's "New Romantic" fashion movement.

This is the title track followed by a live performance clip. Steve Strange is epic in this video.

Visage - The Anvil (zshare)

Fall '10 Menswear Wants and Needs

Although it was still over a hundred degrees today, August is about the time we all start looking at some fall/winter vestments.

If I had more disposable income right this moment, I would definitely be turning to Anne Demeulemeester and the old staple, Dior, for their fall 2010 collections.

I think it's bizarre how I have started liking Kris Van Assche for Dior this past year. Is it maybe because I have been wearing wider pants lately?  Or is it the realization that Hedi is going to just keep taking pictures for his website until he dies?

Now if I had more disposable income and gained some super powers, I would go with Gareth Pugh. No but seriously, I would love to have either of the outerwear shown here.

What does Vestments think of Anna Dello Russo's Dolce & Gabbana see-through phase?

Awesome. Over the past seven or eight months we have seen Vogue Nippon's fashion director strut around in these outfits and we can't help but look.

I find it hilarious when other women call this "trashy" or "inappropriate". When your fashion education consists only of having seen every episode of Sex and the City, or your daddy taking you to Nordstrom every weekend, then you should shut it.

She does what she does for a reason. Plus I think most guys would agree that we would like to see more of this on the streets.

(photo cred: The Sartorialist, All The Pretty Birds)

The Radio Dept. Clinging to a Scheme LP on limited edition white vinyl

Arguably my favorite album of the year so far. This record has been out for a few months and the first pressing has sold out.

Fortunately Labrador records has released a limited run of a thousand copies in white vinyl. Shipping is currently free and you can order a copy here. My record took a while to arrive, but hey you can't beat free shipping.

This song is track one and is the track that really stood out for me apart from the first two singles.

The Radio Dept. - Domestic Scene (zhare)

Abbey Lee for Vogue China by Hedi Slimane

Some photos taken by Hedi Slimane for Vogue China's August 2010 issue. The last one is from the same session that did not make it to print but you can see in Hedi's photo diary on his website here.

These photos are gorgeous but aren't we all just anxious for him to drop the camera for a while and start sewing already? Do you remember a time when he was a menswear designer?

Minimal Wave Tapes Vol. 1 and BIPPP: French Synth-Wave 1979/85

Two very interesting compilations that I highly recommend especially as a primer for cold/synth-wave music and minimal electro. I made this rule a while back about not having compilation or "best of" records in my collection but I made an exception with this one due to the fact that some of these tracks came out only in cassette and in limited number during the early 80's.

Obviously BIPPP contains only French tracks while Minimal Wave Tapes will have a broader European scope along with some American tracks. Stones Throw Records released Minimal Wave earlier this year so you can find it in any of the better record stores in your area. BIPPP on the other hand was released in 2006 so you may have to try eBay or Discogs.

Here is a stop motion video made by Smugg Knife Production. It uses tracks from BIPPP and starts off with Deux's Game and Performance, a track that you can also actually find on Minimal Wave Tapes. If you will recognize any of the songs in here, this is probably the one. Watch it. It's pretty cute I guess.

Deux - Game and Performance (zshare)